The Brown Lady in Europe series continues this week, as we say a tearful goodbye to Paris and head for Italy!  TK and I agreed that since there were so many places that we wanted to explore in Italy,  we would spend the majority of our three week trip in various parts of the country.  First stop, Florence- or should I say Firenze.  With five full days in and around the city, we found no shortage of awesome things to do in Florence.

Ciao Firenze!

After a short flight on Air France, we touched down in Florence, excited to explore the city and surrounding areas.  I’d found a great vacation rental, just a couple blocks from the Duomo- the perfect location for shopping, restaurants and sight seeing.

1. Visit the Duomo

The cathedral at Il Grande Museo Del Duomo is nothing short of breathtaking.  Just walking around the exterior of the building, I was amazed at the intricate detail in every inch of the ornate design.

Trying to imagine how that type of architecture was possible between the 1300-1800’s is really mind blowing.  Museums aren’t really my thing, but apparently I’m an architecture geek- who knew?

2. Shop for all things leather

Italy is famous for  leather.  Everyone I knew who had been to Italy made sure to tell me all about it before my trip.  Somehow though, I was still unprepared for how glorious and overwhelming it would be to walk down streets full of shops packed with gorgeous leather goods.  It’s not a game- you can smell the leather from the street when you pass by.  Bags, jackets, sandals, wallets… leathaaaaaah!   You name it, they have it.   Wandering through our neighborhood near the Duomo, on our first day in Florence, I fell in love at first sight.  This jacket in the window called my name, and I had to answer!

Perfect, hand painted, buttery leather plus the cowl neck and asymmetrical zipper- I was done.  If you’re a shopper, you may meet your match in Florence.  Once I found my jacket, I moved on to bags and sandals.  I tried not to go overboard, but I did have to buy another suitcase before we left Florence.  My decision to only window shop in London paid off!

Get Schooled

If you’re a bag collector, you should also visit Scuola del Cuoio.  The leather school in Florence, has been training Florentine leather artisans since the 1930s.  As you walk through the showroom and workshop area, you can see artisans creating work.

If you have the coins (several thousand of them), you can have a bag custom made.  The work is gorgeous.

If you’re like me and your budget won’t allow you to go the custom route, no worries.  There are all types of smaller gifts you can treat yourself with- wallets, money clips, belts, bracelets and even leather key chains.

3. Visit El Mercato Centrale

I heard about El Mercato Centrale from a co-worker before my trip to Italy.  Whether you are looking for a quick meal, a cocktail, some people watching or you need to pick up a few toiletries, El Mercato is the spot for you.  On the second floor, there’s a little shop with great Italian soaps (awesome gifts that will fit in your bag) and TK even found shampoo and conditioner that works great on our hair.

4. Wine Taste… Under the Tuscan Sun

One great thing about choosing a central home base like Florence, is the opportunity to take some amazing day trips.  Whether you are an avid wine lover or not, how can you not visit the rolling green hills and vineyards of nearby Tuscany?

The Chianti Wine Tour was the perfect introduction to the region.  In a small group (about 10 people), we started with a vineyard tour and tasting at an organic farm.  Sitting on the patio, drinking Italian wine paired with organic cheese, with this view? It really doesn’t get much better.

Our next stop, the medieval town of San Gimignano, where we had quite possibly the best gelato of our trip.

San Gimignano had a little something for everyone.  History buffs, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a time centuries ago.  And of course since it’s a known tourist destination, there is no shortage of shopping.  Beautiful bags seemed to follow us around in Italy and this day was no different.  On our walk out of the town, we stopped in Le Torri, their suede bags were gorgeous.  The only way I made it out of there with my coins was knowing that they have an online shop.

Our tour concluded with a Tuscan lunch and wine tasting at Tenuta Torciano.  The three course lunch included tastings of more than ten wines.  When we arrived, our host called us all to attention at the beautifully set dining table and asked us to ‘focus so he could get us through as many wines as possible.’  He took it seriously and I wasn’t mad at him.  We got a brief lesson in how to properly taste the wine- smelling, swirling and all.  And enjoyed a fabulous meal.  One bonus, they ship their wine for a reasonable fee and offered us a discount for wines we bought during the tour, so we were able to purchase gifts and not worry about traveling with any bottles.

5. Follow the Flag… or don’t

Another gem within driving distance of Florence- Cinque Terre.  Five towns along the coast of Italy, the views of homes seemingly carved into the hillside, are a sight to see.

Each town has its own distinct charms and of course awe-inspiring views and photo ops.

We booked a tour online through Expedia, mostly because it seemed easier than trying to navigate the various ferries and train rides required to visit each town.   While it was early Fall, Cinque Terre had all the feels of summer; people sunbathing on rocks, afternoon cocktails by the water.  Sleepy towns, awakened by huge waves of tourists (us) but seemingly unbothered by it all.

The blocks surrounding the ferry dock were all packed with tourists, several on organized tours each following (or attempting to follow) their tour guides.  This ended up looking and feeling much like a kindergarten field trip, complete with flags to follow and in some cases stickers or matching name tags (embarrassing).  TK and I realized that we aren’t quite cut out of this type of tour, as we don’t play follow the leader very well.  We ditched our nervous (and loud) guide several times, to get away from the crowds and find our own way.

If you’re planning to explore Cinque Terre, opt for a smaller group tour (ideally 15-20 people or less).  The larger the group, the longer it takes to move from place to place… and the more likely you will feel like a small child on a field trip.  If you do end up on a large tour, no worries… just ditch your guide for a bit like we did!

Brown Lady Travel Tips

Don’t Forget to Relax

Try not to book too many excursions or day tours in advance of your trip.  When you’re planning, it may seem perfectly fine to schedule every minute of every day, but remember- the unexpected moments are often the best things about traveling.  A local suggests an off the grid restaurant, you make a wrong turn and wander into an amazing neighborhood, on a whim you decide to take a cooking class from an Italian grandmother.  Give yourself some breathing room for that magic to happen.  Hell, it’s a vacation- sloooow down.

If you plan on visiting cathedrals on your trip, be aware of any dress codes.  Many places of worship won’t allow bare legs and shoulders or sandals (all of which are common in hot Italian summers).  Bring a scarf to wrap around your waist, or pack a maxi dress and light sweater for your church visits.

Space your tours out with at least a day’s break in between.  Day trips often start early in the morning and can last anywhere from eight to fourteen hours- that’s a long day!?!  Give yourself the option to move slowly the day after a long excursion and explore all the amazing things close by.

Be aware of the duty-free limits on your return to the States.  Keep your receipts, especially if you negotiated prices down (which you can).  You don’t want to be taxed based on the price tag, if you paid substantially less.

If you plan to do the majority of your shopping in Florence, consider making it your last stop in Italy.  While it’s definitely possible to buy an extra bag for all your purchases and continue on your journey for a couple weeks (like we did); if I had it to do over again, I’d plan to fly home from Florence after my shopping!

Any other favorites in Firenze??  If it isn’t obvious, I absolutely loved my stay and can’t wait to go back!  And for the foodies, I haven’t forgotten about you.  There will be an Italian food crawl before this series ends.  Ciao!