Just getting back to the Bay Area from Mardi Gras and as promised last week, I’m here with a recap of the highlights!  TK is originally from New Orleans and her family is still there- so I knew I’d be in great hands for my first Mardi Gras.  If you have an interest in getting off the beaten path and seeing more than Bourbon Street and other tourists on your trip, here are some ideas on how to celebrate Mardi Gras like a local.

Where to Catch Those Beads

We caught the Krewe of Bacchus at the beginning of the parade route, at the intersection of Tchoupitoulas Street and Napoleon Avenue.  It was the perfect spot to watch the parade- not too crowded and you got to watch both the floats and bands meet at the intersection and round the corner.

It was raining when we got there. Luckily we had ordered ponchos for the trip; mine saved me several times throughout the week.  Fortunately, the rain passed over quickly and we were able to enjoy the majority of the 30+ floats.  With more than 1,000 Bacchus members- rain or shine, the parade continues!

Meet You at Frenchmen Street

As I sat in the Oakland airport waiting to board for New Orleans, I overheard an older woman chatting with two young women about Mardi Gras.  The young women were excited about their first trip to Mardi Gras.  The older woman called herself giving them some tips for their trip, “Take off all your jewelry; I don’t even wear my wedding ring”, “Don’t carry a purse, put all your money in your bra”, “Your shoes will be ruined on Bourbon Street”;  “If you didn’t bring rain boots, get some; even though the crowds will be so thick, your feet won’t even touch the ground”.  I could almost feel their excitement fade, concern on their faces as she went on and on.  Of course she ended her five minute travel advisory with “Have a great time!”  Hell lady, you sure made it sound fun.  While I don’t share her doomsday perspective and I’ve had a ball several times on Bourbon Street for Essence Fest, I was happy to avoid Bourbon Street until after Mardi Gras.

If you’re looking for an alternative with live music, bars and food minus the drunken Mardi Gras crowds on Bourbon, head to Frenchmen Street.  TK, Janá and I met up at Vaso after the Bacchus parade and while there were lots of people, it wasn’t crazy crowded and no one was vomiting on the street (which is always a win).

Happy Mardi Gras!

It’s finally here- Mardi Gras Day!  An official holiday in New Orleans, everyone has the day off.  Kids are out of school all week, stores are closed for the day, and everyone greets you with a smile and ‘Happy Mardi Gras!’   TK’s uncle lives within walking distance of the Zulu parade route so we got up early in the morning and headed for his house to drop off cars and walk to the parade.

Under The Bridge

One of my favorite parts of Mardi Gras was actually walking under the bridge on Mardi Gras day.  Food stands selling fried chicken, fish and fries; huge BBQ grills smoking, music blasting from speakers and out of cars.  Eating lemon pepper wings under the bridge at 10am, headed for the Zulu parade made my spirit happy.

We caught the Krewe of Zulu rolling at Orleans and Claiborne.  What started as a chilly morning turned into a brilliantly sunny and beautiful day- the first day of our trip without any rain.

Zulu is an impressive collection of more that 40 floats.  Of the three parades we went to, Zulu was my favorite.  They had the best throws of all the parades- with the medallions and Zulu coconuts they’re famous for.

Black Mardi Gras Indians

As the parade started wrapping up, we took a walk back under the bridge.  I really wanted to see the Black Indians in their handmade, beautifully ornate costumes.

I’d seen them perform at Jazz Fest a few years back, but always wanted to see them at Mardi Gras.  The distinctly African and Native American influence is an awesome cultural representation, unique to New Orleans.

Alligators… and Marshmallows?

I’ve been to New Orleans several times, for both Essence Music Festival and Jazz Fest but until this trip, I hadn’t been on a swamp tour.  Granted this would be considered a touristy thing to do, and I know we’re talking about a locals’ experience.  But even locals play tourist sometimes!  I found a Groupon deal for Ultimate Swamp Adventures (shout out to Tiffany Haddish).  The tour is maybe a 15 minute drive from the French Quarter, we drove but you can arrange to have transportation from your hotel included for an additional fee.

TK and I decided to take her nephews with us; they were excited about the alligators.  Her youngest nephew started calling out for them as soon as we hit the boat dock.  For this trip, we selected to do the swamp boat, a slower covered boat closer to the water.  Initially the boys were disappointed not to be on the faster (and louder) airboats.  But once we got out on the water, we saw that the swamp boat actually gets you much closer to the alligators.

I had read somewhere that the tour guides toss marshmallows in the water to get the alligators to come closer.  Sure enough, we got out there and he started tossing marshmallows- and some of the alligators got really close to the boat.  Another sunny day, we saw all types of birds, turtles and at least 10 alligators, some up to 10-12 feet long.

Towards the end of the tour, our guide snatched up a baby alligator (much to the shock of several passengers) and passed it around for people to hold.  I just knew I’d be the one to drop it and send people jumping into alligator infested waters, so I declined- as did TK’s youngest nephew.  Pretty sure he and I both had the same look on our faces.  Thanks, but no thanks.  TK was brave enough to hold it and I was brave enough to take her picture.

Brown Lady Mardi Gras Tips

Grab a small cooler and fill it with snacks and drinks for Mardi Gras Day.  Once you find your spot to watch the parade, you’ll be there for hours.  TK’s brother laughed at me when I pulled a sandwich out of my purse.  Whatever man, it’s a long day and I’ve got Jungle Juice to drink.

Even though I covered it in my post on Essence Fest, it’s worth repeating: comfortable shoes are your friend.  According to my phone, we walked over 6 miles on Mardi Gras Day.  Whether you’re driving or getting dropped off, you will have to walk some distance to get to the parade routes.  With the rain, I packed my Hunter boots, but didn’t end up needing them.  I was fine with regular boots for the duration of the trip.

While we’re on weather- we got a little bit of everything on this trip.  It rained on us a few days, was freezing cold right before Mardi Gras Day, then I got sunburned on Mardi Gras.  I brought my rain boots and poncho and forgot sunscreen.  February in New Orleans is unpredictable, you may need both winter and spring outfits.

Wait until after Mardi Gras day to go to restaurants in the French Quarter to avoid the crowds.  We went to Bourbon House the afternoon after Mardi Gras and Bourbon Street was sleepy and quiet.  Being both Ash Wednesday and Valentine’s Day, it was the most mellow I’ve ever seen it.

If you take a swamp tour, use Groupon for the adult tickets but purchase any kids tickets when you arrive.  They have discounted tickets for children under 12.

That’s A Wrap!

So my first Mardi Gras is in the books!  In addition to all the festivities, I ate my weight in King Cake and shrimp po’ boys.  Next week’s post will be all about the week long food crawl we went on, curated by TK and her brother Teddy.

Until then, anybody have any plans to attend Mardi Gras next year?!