One day in New York will never be enough. As I’ve done with my One Day in San Francisco series, when I’m short on time, I like to focus on a neighborhood or a theme. I’ve always had an affinity for Harlem. Watching legendary performers and rising stars on Showtime at the Apollo (and terrible ones, booted off the stage by a tap dancing Sandman and loud ‘boos’ from the crowd).
As a teenager, I discovered poems by Langston Hughes, prose about being biracial and living in two worlds- validation of my own family and story. Later, I developed a love for jazz- Duke Ellington, John Coltrane and Miles Davis. I heard stories about the Harlem Renaissance, a time in American history when New York was bursting at the seams with Black artists and makers. The stories came alive for me in an Ethnic Studies class on the Harlem Renaissance at Santa Clara University. On a very white campus, which often felt cold and unwelcoming, this introduction to Harlem and unapologetically Black spaces (taught by a Black professor) was a welcome reprieve. From writers like my old friend, Langston Hughes to Nella Larsen and Zora Neale Hurston, to musicians like Louie Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday- Harlem had a culture all its own.
As I learned more about my own home and history, I came to know the Fillmore in San Francisco, by its nickname, ‘the Harlem of the West‘. The San Francisco that welcomed my great aunt, Sadie Mae, from Texas in the 1940’s was home to a vibrant jazz district that hosted all the greats when they were in town. Long before I ever visited Harlem, it managed to introduce itself to me. Poems, music and stories, sprinkled across my world brought this dynamic place to life.
Heading to the East Coast for work, brought back all these memories of my own discovery of Harlem. If you have one day in New York, here are a few gems from my most recent trip to Harlem. Enjoy!
Breakfast at Sylvia’s
Sylvia’s is an institution in Harlem. Family owned and operated since the early 60’s, a visit to Harlem wouldn’t be complete without a stop here. Have some chicken and waffles to start your day; you can’t explore Harlem on an empty stomach!
Return to the Renaissance
After breakfast at Sylvia’s, take the quick two block walk, back in time to the golden years of jazz at the National Jazz Museum in Harlem. If you’re lucky, you’ll have a great ambassador to introduce you to the space like we did. As KT and I rounded the corner from Sylvia’s, we ran into Ray Carman at the door of the museum. The President of the Duke Ellington Society, Mr. Ray (at 84 years old) is also a volunteer at the Jazz Museum. In less than 20 minutes, Mr. Ray- a New York native- walked us through a detailed history of jazz in Harlem. His wide grin evidence of his great love for the culture and history he generously shares with visitors like us.
As is often true, music told the stories of the time. The triumphs and tragedies, the hopes and failures. The joys and pains of our country- racism and multiple wars, Prohibition and Black migration from the South. The artists of the era captured it all in a time capsule of sorts, in this case- jazz music. The soundtrack of Harlem, spanning decades, comes to life in this museum. Take a tour of this special space and imagine the neighborhood that was home to the Savoy and the Cotton Club, the background for legends like Billie Holiday and Louie Armstrong.
Lunch at Teranga
I stumbled into Teranga purely by accident. Headed to a meeting at The Africa Center, I walked into this beautiful space and immediately felt at home.
When my meeting wrapped up just before lunch time, I didn’t really want to leave and figured I would give lunch at Teranga a try. Best.Decision.Ever.
If this gorgeous plate of food doesn’t sway you, please trust and believe, it’s bursting with perfect bites. This African meal was true soul food, in the best sense. Seasoned with just the right spices, it tasted amazing and felt good for my soul. I would go back in a heartbeat- this was easily my favorite meal from my entire visit to Harlem.
Happy Hour(s) on Lenox Avenue
Red Rooster
Yes, happy hours, as in multiple. You have two awesome options. Feel free to try both (like we did). First stop, Red Rooster. The brain child of celebrity Chef, Marcus Samuelsson, this spot is the perfect blend of old school and new. Speakeasy meets #HarlemWorld.
If you can get a seat at the actual bar, you can take advantage of their happy hour menu until 7pm. Enjoy a signature cocktail like the Fly Girl (the smoky mezcal with pineapple is perfect for a hot, summer night), or a refreshing Garvey Punch. Grab an order of Wild Wild Wings to share, while you enjoy the live music and people watching.
Corner Social
When you leave Red Rooster, head across the street to Corner Social. Happy hour continues! Meeting up with some friends on a warm July night, Corner Social, with the open air patio and R&B wafting through the air felt like everything summer is meant to be.
If like me, you only have one day in New York, Corner Social is a solid bet for good vibes. Sundresses and smiles; drinks and a DJ- if I lived in Harlem, this would be my Cheers.
Over, already??
The day will fly by, you may even feel nostalgic before you’ve left. Harlem is a special place, with wonderful history and culture. On my next trip, I hope to head back to The Africa Center, to catch some programming at the museum this time (and definitely for another plate from Teranga!). If it’s a nice day, I’d love to take a neighborhood walk, find some street art and visit the Harriet Tubman and Duke Ellington statues.
In a day, you won’t event scratch the surface, but you can have fun trying. Head uptown and see what you can see!
Love the post!
Thanks, Kevin!
Wish I woulda read this for my last trip. I ended up in Harlem and didn’t know where to go!
You’ll have to make another trip, Diani! 😉
TIP FOR THE BAND!? LOL another lovely recap of a great trip! Xoxo
KT
Lol, there’s always a story! Xoxo
wonderful wonderful wonderful!
Thanks!!