After the madness that was our brief stop in Positano, this week in the Brown Lady in Europe series, we get acquainted with Naples.  Though it was an unexpected stop on our journey, I was excited about my first trip to Naples and ready to explore.

Welcome to Naples!

Since we had planned to spend this time on the Amalfi Coast and our stay in Naples was so last minute, I hadn’t done any research for this area of Italy.  However, I was so relieved not to be staying in the ant-infested, hot box we encountered in Positano, both TK and I approached our time in Naples with openness and a free spirited attitude, happy to wander aimlessly, finding gems along the way.

Considering that we chose Grand Hotel Oriente in a split second under extreme duress, we really lucked out!  Centrally located and with a beautiful rooftop bar and patio space, we took advantage of the warm weather and enjoyed wine with a panoramic view of Naples, more than once during our stay.

1. That Neapolitan Vibe

Some places give you a feeling… an energy that you can’t always explain, you just feel it.   New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, Paris… some places envelope you in culture, history, and have attitude in the best way- a unique vibe.  Naples is one of those places.  Stepping out of the Grand Hotel Oriente into the street, I felt the vibrancy of the city immediately.  A warm day in early Fall, people of all ages congregating on steps, benches and on plazas.  Elders and parents with small children in strollers, kids playing soccer, shoppers drifting in and out of stores.  Locals and tourists mixing easily on the busy streets.

We spent much of our first day wandering around the areas surrounding the hotel- people watching, shopping, eating super yummy and surprisingly cheap food.  What struck me most about Naples was the unexpected yet obvious contrast between the beauty and grit of the city.  Images that you wouldn’t expect to find in the same place, coexisting side by side, neither seemingly particularly out of place. Ornate statues with graffiti and street art at the base; bustling activity and energy directly across the street from a peaceful waterfront.

Neapolitan Swag

One thing I really loved about Naples was its effortless cool.  Walking around, window shopping I really dug the unique and unapologetic style Naples has.  Shops full of sparkly, funky sneakers in loud, bright colors.  Naples has a swag that I really dig- very European but with almost a hip hop sensibility.

If you’re a sneaker head, you might get in trouble in Naples.  I saw wild Adidas, Pumas and other brands in designs and colors I’d never seen before.  One night as we walked through the main shopping area, I saw a young woman in front of us, strutting hard.  In short shorts and bright red heels, she stood out- the only woman I had seen in heels at all since arriving in Naples.  Just when I was about to comment to TK on how she was able to walk through the streets in those shoes, she stopped abruptly and sat on the curb, kicked those heels off and slipped on some dope high top sneakers, hopped up and continued on her way.  Yea, Naples swag is alright with me.

2. Food and Walking Tours

In addition to being able to eat your fill of amazing pizza for about $5, on your trip to Naples you can also opt to make pizzas of your own!  TK and I booked a pizza making class and walking tour on Expedia with World Tours. We booked the tour the day before, due to our change of travel plans and unexpected arrival in Naples.  We ended up lucking out, having the tour to ourselves, with just our guide, Grazia.

Have Some Pizza with your Parmesan

We started the tour at our pizza making class; which to be fair was more of a pizza assembly class, as the dough was already made before we arrived and all the necessary ingredients were ready and waiting when we got there.  I wasn’t mad though, it was hot in that kitchen and I was ready to eat!  Grazia talked to us about the basic ingredients, the dough (which had been prepared the night before), the sauce (made with fresh tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and spices) and fresh mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella), parmesan cheese.  My stomach is growling just thinking about it.   We met the chef, a jovial guy who didn’t speak much English but was happy to show us how to make our pizzas.

We got to work, each making our own pizzas, along with the chef.  He showed us how to shape our dough and then started adding ingredients.  TK and I followed along, mirroring the chef’s actions, adding sauce, cheese and our toppings.  The chef grabbed a small pinch of parmesan and sprinkled it on his pizza; I did the same.  TK grabbed a fist full of parmesan and tossed it on her pizza enthusiastically.  The chef stopped and looked at her with wide eyes, clearly amused and let out a big laugh.   He shrugged and grabbed his own handful of parmesan and tossed it on his pizza too.  Some moments don’t need language at all- it was hilarious.  After a drizzle with olive oil over the top, our masterpieces were all set for the oven.

Buon Appetito!

When I say that was the best pizza of the entire trip… it was soooo good!  Maybe because I made it myself.  But seriously, doesn’t it look good??

Much like our walking food tour in Paris with our wildly colorful guide, PJ- one highlight of our walking tour of Naples, was our guide, Grazia, who was from the city and could speak to her experiences and the history of the area in a way that only a native can.  Our walk took us through markets, busy shopping areas, past museums and monuments.  A great way to spend an afternoon… and walk off all that pizza!

3. Discover the Island of Capri

Having seen gorgeous pictures of Capri, coupled with the desire for custom made sandals the island is known for, we were excited to take a day trip from Naples.  With our hotel a short walk from the Beverello ferry port, the concierge shared the ferry schedule with us and we made our way to the port, purchasing our tickets before departure.

On the high speed ferry, we made it to Capri in less than an hour.  Much like any commuter ferry, it was a no frills ride.  TK did wonder about how we might get to the life jackets in an emergency; I talked her out of hoarding three or four ‘just in case’ she needed them.  Fortunately, we made it without incident.

Island Love

The island of Capri is every bit as beautiful as you might imagine.  A few hours was hardly long enough to do such a picturesque place any justice, but we made the most of our time, heading for the beach to catch a glimpse of the brilliantly blue water and views.

The beach is rocky, which makes it hard to walk (and a little painful!), but it was totally worth braving the rocks for a few minutes to take it all in.  I was amazed to see Italians laying on the rocks, just as you would on a powder sand beach.  I guess if you’re used to it, it doesn’t hurt maybe?

Another warm and sunny day, we made our way to a restaurant on the waterfront, in search of a glass of wine and some lunch.

After a nice seafood lunch on the water, we ventures off in search of our custom made sandals.  I found a cute pair at a shop near the ferry dock and had them sized for me.  TK wanted to find a pair for her and her mom, so we continued on and stumbled upon Capri Pride.

Capri Pride was a great find!  They have hundreds of options already made, but you can also choose all your materials and have them make you a custom pair and fit you for them immediately.  Much like the artisans we saw at the leather school in Florence, the sandal makers are clearly passionate about their craft and take it seriously.  If we didn’t have a ferry to catch, we could have gotten into big trouble in this store.  We made it out of there with sandals for TK’s mom… and a dress for me. 😉

Brown Lady Travel Tips

Rise and Shine

If you plan to visit Capri for the day, get up and catch an early ferry.  We didn’t leave Naples until early afternoon, which didn’t allow enough time to really explore Capri beyond the immediate area around the ferry dock.  I would love to go back and go on a tour of the Blue Grotto.

Find the Gems Close to Home

When you get home from your trip to Naples and find yourself craving pizza (like I did) and want to make your own, look for authentic Italian markets in your city.  I lucked out when I got back to San Francisco and found Lucca Ravioli.    As I passed the large window on Valencia Street headed for the entrance, I could see an old man through the window… making dough.  It made my heart flutter with excitement.  The fresh mozzarella, sauce, extensive deli counter and imported Italian wine sealed the deal for me.  Lucca has become my go-to spot when I miss Italy and find myself in need of a homemade pizza.  I only had to travel across the world to discover this gem less than two miles from my house!?!

Keep an Open Mind

If you’re hesitant about visiting, I’d encourage you to have an open mind and give Naples a chance.  If you do a quick google search of Naples, articles may pop up about safety concerns (like they do for many cities and countries around the world).  On our walking tour, Grazia shared the challenges of the economy in Naples and how some people fall into illegal activity to survive.  I thought about Giovanni’s reaction when he exited the freeway on our ride from Amalfi Coast to Naples, locking the doors and hiding his valuables.

The reputation reminded me of how people view Oakland, New Orleans and other cities in the US- with fear, often generalizing an entire city without much willingness or ability to discern truth from rumor.

Every place has its highs and lows.  While Naples did feel more crowded and grittier than say Florence, it was comparable to downtown and metro areas in many large cities in the US, but with its own unique charms and nuances.  We kept our eyes open, as we always do- both at home and abroad.  I never felt unsafe and found everyone we encountered to be kind and pleasant.  I came to Naples with no expectations and came away loving it all, grateful that fate saw fit for us to make a detour through this special place.

If you’ve been to Naples, what were some of your favorite things?